Sewing & Production
Each Somewhere Never bra begins as a hand-drawn design and technical sketch that defines the shape, fit, and embroidery placement. From there, a pattern is developed and refined through sample fittings to ensure the right balance of comfort and support.
Once the design is approved, the pattern pieces are arranged on the fabric in the most efficient way to reduce waste. The fabrics are then carefully cut, and each section — cups, band, frame, and straps — is sewn together in small batches.
Elastic trims are attached to the underband, underarm and top back, metal closures are added for adjustability, and each piece is finished with branded, care, and size labels.
Developing a lingerie collection takes months of research, sketching, embroidery design, fabric sourcing, prototyping, fitting, and sampling. Unlike ready-to-wear, lingerie requires extensive fit testing across sizes, as each size may need a slightly different pattern.
At Somewhere Never, my process begins with hand-drawn embroidery artwork, inspired by mid-century design, architecture, and travel. I then sketch lingerie silhouettes in Illustrator and digitally “drop in” my embroidery designs to see which motifs and placements work best with each bra or brief shape. From there, I draft the patterns.
Once the shapes are finalised, I create detailed tech packs for my factory — including a bill of materials, a sewing instruction sheet, a measurement chart, and coloured sketches. I calculate fabric and trim quantities, arrange fabric orders, and oversee any custom dyeing that needs to be done.
Prototypes are then made — sometimes in my Brooklyn studio for small-batch collections, other times at my specialist European factory. I personally check fittings and samples before giving approval for production. Occasionally, if I still have fabrics available, I’ll make a few more sizes to add back into sold-out styles.
This balance of studio craftsmanship and factory precision allows me to create both one-of-a-kind treasures and larger runs with couture-level quality.
✨ If you’d like to know more about my process or my background in lingerie design, you can visit my [About Me] page or get in touch via hello@somewherenever.com
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Lingerie design is closer to engineering than to cutting a T-shirt or dress. Fabrics are often sheer, stretchy, or embroidered, so every seam placement affects support and comfort. Unlike outerwear, bras must fit to the millimetre — a few millimetres off in the band or cup can completely change the fit.
To be a truly great lingerie designer, it’s not enough to sketch ideas — you need to understand pattern making and sewing. Lingerie is extremely complex: elastics, meshes, tulles, and embroideries all behave differently, and only by working hands-on can you learn how they interact and how to shape them into something supportive, flattering, and comfortable.
Briefs and bras also use specialist components like e-hooks, underbands, sliders, and rings — each one designed to balance flexibility, support, and comfort.
At Somewhere Never, I merge fashion aesthetics with lingerie engineering — bold embroidery and statement colours, engineered onto tulles and meshes that hold their shape and sit comfortably on the skin. My design work is rooted in years of pattern cutting and sewing experience, so every piece is built from the inside out.
Quality lingerie depends on fabric choice, precise sewing, and careful finishing. Each bra is inspected to make sure seams are smooth, elastics aren’t twisted, and embroidery is secure. In specialist factories, different machines are often dedicated to a single task (like bartacking straps or sewing underbands), so every stitch is consistent.
At Somewhere Never, I draw on my background in pattern cutting and sewing to check fittings and samples before approving production. I use plush-backed elastics, premium embroidery threads, and Italian meshes that don’t pill or distort, ensuring each piece feels luxurious and lasts. And because I pack every order myself, I double-check each garment before it leaves the studio — so when it arrives with you, I know it’s exactly as it should be.
It depends on the design, but even a “simple” bra is surprisingly time-intensive. Unlike a T-shirt, which can be cut and sewn in minutes, a bra requires dozens of small steps: cutting tiny pattern pieces, attaching elastics, sewing seams to millimetre accuracy, inserting components like rings and sliders, and finishing with embroidery or detailing.
In a specialist factory – A bra is usually made in an assembly line, where each machinist performs one task (such as attaching straps or bartacking hooks). Even then, it can take 30–60 minutes of combined labour time to produce a single bra.
In small-batch or studio production – When one person makes the entire garment from start to finish, the process takes far longer — often 2–4 hours per bra, depending on the embroidery placement and finishing details.
At Somewhere Never, I know exactly how long each piece takes because I’ve sewn them myself in my Brooklyn studio. Many of my embroideries feature scalloped edges or bold motifs that must be positioned precisely on the pattern pieces — so that the scallops fall neatly along a neckline, or motifs align perfectly across the cups and wings. This adds an extra level of care and time to every piece. In the European factory, where tasks are divided, the process is faster per bra but still requires specialist skills at every stage. This is why lingerie — though small in size — is one of the most labour-intensive garments in fashion.