Elastic needs stitches that can stretch without breaking, which is why straight stitches don’t work — they snap as soon as the fabric stretches. Instead, lingerie designers use stitch types that flex with the fabric:

Zigzag stitch – the most common for home sewing. It stretches with the elastic and can be adjusted in width and length.

Three-step zigzag – a variation that distributes tension across three small stitches instead of one, making it more secure and comfortable against the skin.

Coverstitch – often used in sportswear and lingerie finishing, it creates parallel rows of stitching with stretch built in.

Overlock/serger – used to finish raw edges neatly while keeping seams flexible.

At Somewhere Never, I use a combination of zigzag, coverstitch, and overlocking when attaching elastics. Each has its role: zigzag for secure stretch attachment, coverstitch for clean finishes, and overlocking for neat edges. Getting the tension right is key — it’s one of those invisible details that makes lingerie both supportive and comfortable.

When sewing elastic or stretch fabrics, the needle choice is critical. A regular sharp needle can snag, break fibres, or cause skipped stitches, because it pierces too harshly through the knit structure.

Ballpoint needle – has a rounded tip that glides between fibres instead of cutting them. Best for knits, stretch meshes, and most elastics.

Stretch needle – designed specifically for fabrics with high elastane (like spandex). It helps prevent skipped stitches when working with Lycra-heavy blends.

Twin stretch needle – used for parallel topstitching on elastics or hems while preserving stretch.

Needle sizes – For lingerie, finer needles like 70/10 or 75/11 usually work best. They’re sharp enough to stitch cleanly but fine enough not to damage delicate fabrics.

Practical tips from experience:

Always test on a scrap of your fabric before sewing the garment, experimenting with different needles, stitch widths, and tensions.

Keep your bobbin casing clean and free from lint; even small build-up can affect stitch quality.

Check under the needle plate for dirt or lint, which can also cause skipped stitches.

Adjust the presser foot pressure — too much pressure can stretch or distort delicate fabrics, too little can stop them feeding evenly.

If fabric isn’t feeding smoothly, try sewing with a thin layer of tracing paper on top and tear it away after stitching.

At Somewhere Never, I rely on ballpoint and stretch needles for sewing my meshes and elastics. Getting these details right makes all the difference: it protects the fabric, keeps stitches neat and flexible, and ultimately ensures lingerie that’s durable as well as comfortable.

Lingerie fabrics are delicate and often stretchy, so the seams need to be both strong and flexible. This is why zigzag stitches and serging (overlocking) are the most common techniques used:

Zigzag stitches – Unlike a straight stitch, zigzagging builds in flexibility. The seam can stretch with the fabric without the threads snapping. It’s also low-bulk, which is important in garments that sit close to the skin.

Three-step zigzag – A variation often used to attach elastic, as it distributes tension more evenly and reduces the chance of the seam digging in.

Serging/overlocking – An industrial method where the edges of the fabric are trimmed and encased in thread at the same time. This prevents fraying, keeps seams neat, and adds elasticity. Serged seams are smooth and flat, so they don’t rub uncomfortably against the body.

At Somewhere Never, I use zigzag stitching, coverstitch, and overlocking depending on the seam placement. When I’m overlocking, I often use a “woolly nylon” thread on the lower looper — the underside thread that sits next to the skin — because it fluffs out slightly, creating a softer edge that feels smoother and less scratchy against the body. It’s one of those subtle technical choices that makes lingerie more comfortable to wear.

A coverstitch is a type of stitch that creates two or more parallel rows of straight stitching on the top side, with a looper thread underneath that covers the raw edges. It’s widely used in lingerie, sportswear, and activewear for stretch hems and seams.

Function – Coverstitching keeps seams flat, stretchy, and neat. The underside looper thread prevents irritation by enclosing edges and distributing pressure smoothly.

Machines – A dedicated coverstitch machine does this, though some overlocker/serger machines can convert between overlock and coverstitch.

At Somewhere Never, I use coverstitching to join the cups, frame, and wings to the underband. On the underside, the looper threads wrap around all the raw edges, creating a clean, irritation-free finish. It’s a professional technique that makes the inside of the garment as considered as the outside.

Both are seam-finishing techniques, but they serve different purposes:

French seams – The raw edges are enclosed inside the seam itself, leaving a neat, delicate finish with no exposed threads. They’re elegant and soft against the skin, but add bulk and don’t stretch well, so they’re best for lightweight woven fabrics.

Overlocked seams – Raw edges are trimmed and encased in thread by an overlocker/serger. This creates a stretchy, low-bulk finish that works perfectly for knits, meshes, and elastics. Overlocked seams are faster to sew and much stronger under tension.

In lingerie:

French seams are sometimes used in sheer woven fabrics for a luxury finish.

Overlocked seams are the go-to for stretch fabrics, where flexibility and durability are essential.

At Somewhere Never, I use overlocked seams for my meshes and elastics, since they keep the garments lightweight, flexible, and comfortable. French seams are beautiful, but less practical for lingerie where stretch and movement are key.

Lingerie seams are usually much narrower than those in outerwear or everyday clothing. This comes down to both comfort and aesthetics:

Comfort – Narrow seams reduce bulk, so they don’t rub or dig into the skin. This is essential in garments worn close to the body for long periods of time.

Appearance – Slim seams are less visible under clothing, keeping lingerie smooth and discreet. In sheer fabrics like mesh or tulle, narrow seams also look neater and more delicate.

Fabric preservation – Lingerie fabrics (tulle, mesh, lace) are lightweight. Wide seam allowances would add unnecessary stiffness and could distort the garment’s drape.

Precision – Small seam allowances demand accuracy in cutting and sewing, but they allow the garment to be shaped more elegantly around the curves of the body.

At Somewhere Never, I keep seams narrow not only for comfort but also to let the embroidery and bold colours take centre stage without distraction. The seams are engineered to disappear visually, leaving the impression that the embroidery is floating effortlessly on the skin.

Lingerie needs stitches that are stretch-friendly, low-bulk, and durable, so the choice of machine makes a huge difference.

Common stitches in lingerie:

Zigzag stitch – flexible and versatile, used to attach elastics and finish edges.

Three-step zigzag – spreads tension more evenly, perfect for elastic attachments.

Coverstitch – creates neat, parallel rows of stretch stitching. In my process, I use it to join the cups, frame, and wings to the underband — on the underside, the looper threads cover all the raw edges, which keeps the inside neat and stops irritation against the skin.

Overlock/serger stitch – trims and binds raw edges while keeping seams stretchy and smooth.

Straight stitch – only in areas that don’t need to stretch, like bar tacks or channeling.

Machines used:

Domestic machines – versatile, able to do zigzag, straight stitch, and basic finishing.

Combo overlocker/coverstitch – space-saving but fiddly to rethread; if you can afford it, separate machines are far easier and more efficient.

Industrial machines – each machine is specialised for a single function (elastic attachment, bartacking, embroidery).

At Somewhere Never, I sew samples in New York mainly on domestic and combo machines, due to cost and space. My European factory uses industrial machines, including a specialised bartack machine for reinforcing stress points. This combination of small-scale studio sewing and high-precision factory production ensures that every piece balances craft with durability.