Lycra is the brand name for elastane (also known as spandex in the US). It’s a synthetic fibre famous for its exceptional stretch and ability to snap back into shape. Even in tiny percentages, Lycra makes fabrics more flexible, comfortable, and resilient. Without it, bras and briefs would quickly lose their fit, bag, or sag.

In lingerie, Lycra is usually blended into fabrics like mesh, jersey, or microfibre to add stretch and recovery.

At Somewhere Never, while my embroidered motifs are stitched onto rigid tulle for precision, I do use stretch mesh containing Lycra for the backs of briefs and the back wings of bras. This gives a secure yet flexible fit, balancing structure at the front with comfort and adaptability at the back.

Polyamide — more commonly known as nylon — is a synthetic fibre invented in the 1930s as an alternative to silk. It’s lightweight, smooth, and incredibly strong for its weight, with natural resistance to abrasion and quick-drying properties. Nylon can be spun into everything from sheer tulles to durable satins, which is why it’s one of the most widely used fibres in lingerie.

Compared with natural fibres, nylon is less absorbent but far more resilient, making it ideal for fabrics that need to be both delicate in appearance and durable in wear.

At Somewhere Never, polyamide is an essential part of my fabrics: it’s used in the fine tulle bases that hold embroidery, in the sheer meshes that create “floating on the skin” effects, and in many of the elastics that need both strength and softness. Its smooth hand feel means it sits comfortably against the body, while its durability ensures that each piece lasts through repeated wear.

They’re three names for the same fibre:

Elastane – the generic name used in Europe and much of the textile industry.

Spandex – the generic name used in the US (an anagram of “expands”).

Lycra – a trademarked brand name by Invista, used to market premium elastane.

All three refer to a polyurethane-based synthetic fibre with extraordinary elasticity — it can stretch up to five times its length and still return to its original shape. This makes it essential in lingerie, where fabrics need both flexibility and recovery.

At Somewhere Never, elastane/Lycra is used in stretch meshes and elastics to ensure comfort and fit. Even in small percentages, it makes a huge difference: briefs move with you, and bra wings hug the body while keeping their shape.

Mesh is a lightweight, open-weave fabric that can range from fine and delicate to firm and supportive. It’s usually made from nylon (polyamide) or polyester blended with elastane, which gives it stretch and recovery. Mesh is breathable, sheer, and versatile, which is why it’s so widely used in lingerie.

There are many types of mesh:

Sheer mesh – soft and transparent, often used for lightweight lingerie panels.

Power mesh – denser and stronger, designed for support in bra wings or shapewear.

Decorative mesh – patterned or flocked, sometimes used in place of lace.

At Somewhere Never, mesh plays two very different roles:

I use rigid, nearly translucent mesh (tulle) as the base for embroidery, giving the illusion that motifs are floating on the skin.

I use stretch mesh with Lycra in the backs of briefs and bra wings, where flexibility and comfort are essential.

This balance — rigid in front for design precision, stretch in back for adaptability — is part of what makes our lingerie both striking and wearable.

Tulle is a very fine net fabric, characterised by its hexagonal weave. It was first produced in Tulle, France (which gave the fabric its name) and became famous in bridal veils, ballet tutus, and evening gowns. Today, tulle is usually made from nylon (polyamide) or polyester, sometimes with elastane for stretch.

Tulle comes in different weights and qualities:

Soft stretch tulle – often used for linings, lingerie panels, or softer silhouettes.

Crisp rigid tulle – holds shape and structure, traditionally used in couture and bridalwear.

Illusion tulle – ultra-sheer, designed to disappear against the skin.

At Somewhere Never, I use rigid, sheer tulle as the foundation for embroidery. Its nearly invisible quality makes the embroidery appear to float directly on the skin, creating a bold yet weightless effect. While the tulle itself has only a little mechanical give, I rely on pattern cutting (darts, seams, and shaping) rather than stretch to create the fit of my bras.

Power mesh is a type of mesh fabric that is denser, firmer, and contains a higher percentage of elastane than standard mesh. This gives it strong stretch-and-recovery properties, meaning it can flex with the body but also “pull back” to provide support.

The fabric first became popular in the mid-20th century, when lingerie and foundation garments began shifting away from rigid corsetry toward stretch-based support. Power mesh allowed designers to create lighter, more breathable garments that still offered shaping and control — a revolution in comfort compared to steel boning and heavy fabrics.

In lingerie, power mesh is used where both comfort and control are needed:

Bra wings and bands – for firm hold and stability.

Shapewear panels – to smooth and contour the body.

Support linings – inside cups or corsetry for added strength without bulk.

It’s breathable and lightweight but remains one of the most functional fabrics in lingerie.

At Somewhere Never, I don’t typically use power mesh because my focus is on embroidery placed on fine rigid tulle, paired with softer stretch meshes at the back. That said, it’s a fabric I deeply respect — many lingerie designers rely on power mesh as the hidden workhorse of fit and support.

Silk and satin are often confused, but they’re not the same thing.

Silk is a natural fibre, first developed in ancient China around 2700 BCE. It’s spun from silkworm cocoons and prized for its softness, lustre, and breathability. For centuries, silk was so valuable that it was traded along the Silk Road and reserved for royalty and the elite.

Satin is not a fibre but a weave. The satin weave creates a glossy, smooth surface on one side and a matte reverse. Satin can be woven from silk, but also from synthetics such as polyester or nylon. The weave became especially popular in Renaissance Europe, where silk satin gowns were a symbol of wealth and refinement.

Which is better for lingerie?

Silk satin – luxurious, breathable, and naturally lustrous, but delicate, costly, and with limited stretch.

Synthetic satin – affordable, durable, and easy to care for, but lacking the softness and breathability of silk.

At Somewhere Never, my signature fabrics are sheer tulle and mesh embroidered with bold motifs — but silk satin is part of an upcoming collection. Its fluid drape and luxurious hand-feel open up new ways of working with colour and silhouette, especially when combined with embroidery. Look out for silk satin in future designs — it’s a fabric I can’t wait to reinterpret through the Somewhere Never lens.

Cotton is a natural fibre that has been used in lingerie for centuries thanks to its softness, breathability, and absorbency. In modern lingerie, cotton is most commonly found in:

Gussets (the lining of briefs) – cotton is hygienic, breathable, and comfortable against the skin, making it the industry standard for this part of the garment.

Everyday bras and knickers – cotton jerseys are lightweight and cooling, often used for basics designed for daily wear.

Loungewear or sleepwear – where comfort and softness are the main priorities.

However, cotton has its limitations: it doesn’t stretch much, can lose shape over time, and doesn’t provide the sleek, sculptural quality often needed in fashion-led lingerie.

At Somewhere Never, I use cotton for gusset linings (for comfort and hygiene), but it isn’t a core fabric in my designs. My focus is on sheer tulles, meshes, and embroidered surfaces that allow me to experiment with bold motifs, unusual colour combinations, and couture-inspired details — qualities that cotton fabrics can’t fully support.

Lace is an openwork fabric made by looping, twisting, or knitting threads into decorative patterns. Historically, lace was hand-crafted from linen, silk, or cotton and became a symbol of wealth and refinement in Europe from the 16th century onwards. Cities like Venice, Brussels, and Calais became world-renowned for their lace-making traditions.

Today, most lingerie lace is machine-made using fibres such as nylon (polyamide) or polyester, often blended with elastane for stretch. The most celebrated modern types include:

Leavers lace – made on historic Leavers machines, prized for its fine detail and couture quality.

Raschel lace – a faster, more affordable machine lace, widely used in lingerie.

Guipure lace – a heavier style where motifs are connected by bars or plaits rather than net, giving a bold, raised effect.

Lace is loved for its delicacy and romantic associations, but it’s also fragile and highly traditional in feel.

At Somewhere Never, I admire lace but tend to favour embroidery. Embroidery allows me to design bold, graphic motifs, produce them in small batches, and push beyond the limitations of lace machinery. Lace is beautiful but expected; embroidery gives me freedom to experiment with shapes, colours, and ideas that feel fresh and unexpected in lingerie.

Synthetic fabrics like nylon (polyamide), polyester, and elastane (Lycra) play a central role in lingerie design because of their performance:

Durability – synthetics are strong, resistant to abrasion, and less likely to pill or break than many natural fibres.

Stretch & recovery – elastane/Lycra gives fabrics flexibility and bounce-back, essential for lingerie that moves with the body.

Colourfastness – synthetics hold dye beautifully, keeping colours vivid wash after wash.

Versatility – they can be woven or knitted into sheers, meshes, satins, and tulles, opening up a wide design vocabulary.

Natural fibres like cotton or silk have their place, but they can be fragile in lingerie, especially under friction. Cotton pills and loses shape, while silk is delicate and often prohibitively expensive for small-batch runs.

At Somewhere Never, I use synthetics because they allow me to create bold embroidered motifs that stay crisp and vibrant, and to balance rigid embroidered panels with stretch mesh for comfort. They also make small-batch production feasible without compromising on quality.

Looking ahead, I hope the textile industry continues to innovate with biodegradable synthetics that combine performance with lower environmental impact. When commercially available at scale, these fibres could open the door to lingerie that is not only beautiful and durable, but also designed with its full lifecycle in mind.