Briefs & Underwear History

Women didn’t always wear underwear as we know it today. For centuries in Europe, long chemises or shifts were worn under dresses, but they were more like full under-dresses than separate panties.

16th–18th centuries: In many Western cultures, women often went without drawers — underwear as we know it was considered unnecessary under long skirts. Men wore breeches or drawers, but women relied on layers of fabric.

Early 19th century: “Drawers” or pantalettes appeared — loose, knee-length cotton undergarments tied at the waist. They were practical but not considered fashionable.

Late 19th century: Pantalettes shortened into knickers and bloomers, becoming more like modern underwear.

Early 20th century: Briefs became standard, with elastic waistbands and shorter cuts. The 1920s and ’30s introduced silk and rayon panties that were slimmer and more glamorous.

Today: Briefs come in endless variations — thongs, bikinis, high-waist, boyshorts — all shaped by fashion trends and fabric technology.

The thong has roots far earlier than most people think.

- Ancient origins: Minimal loincloth-style garments resembling thongs were worn by men and women in ancient Africa and South America. These were practical garments, offering coverage without bulk.

- 20th century: The modern thong entered fashion history in the 1930s, when New York mayor Fiorello LaGuardia ordered nude dancers to cover up — designers created skimpy underwear that technically complied with modesty laws while remaining revealing.

- 1970s–80s: The thong became popular in Brazil as part of the rise of the “dental floss” bikini. Designers like Rudi Gernreich (who also created the monokini) brought it to U.S. swimwear in the 1970s.

- 1990s: The thong became a mainstream lingerie trend, popularised by brands like Victoria’s Secret and music moments like Sisqó’s “Thong Song.” Visible thongs above low-rise jeans even became a Y2K fashion statement.

- Today: Thongs are an everyday staple for many, valued for being invisible under clothing. Styles range from classic thongs to G-strings and V-strings, offering minimal coverage in different silhouettes.

For much of history, women didn’t wear underwear in the way we think of it today. The idea of separate briefs or panties is relatively modern.

- Ancient times: In cultures like Egypt, Greece, and Rome, women sometimes wore loincloths or wrapped bands for modesty, but many simply wore long tunics with no underlayers.

- Middle Ages (Europe): Women wore long linen chemises or shifts under their dresses. These acted as a barrier between the body and outer clothing, absorbing sweat and protecting expensive gowns. They weren’t “underwear” in the modern sense, but more like full underdresses.

- 16th–18th centuries: Women in Europe often went without drawers entirely. Underwear was considered unnecessary beneath voluminous skirts. Men wore breeches and drawers, but women relied on multiple layers of skirts and petticoats.

- 19th century: As fashion shifted, women began adopting pantalettes (long, open-crotch drawers) for modesty and hygiene. These eventually shortened into knickers and bloomers, leading toward modern panties.

So before briefs became standard, most women relied on long underdresses, layers of skirts, or nothing at all. The concept of a fitted undergarment for the lower body is actually only about 200 years old.

The modern thong has several origin stories, but its journey from practicality to fashion is fascinating.

- Ancient roots: Loincloth-style garments resembling thongs were worn in Africa, South America, and Asia for thousands of years — minimal coverage designed for hot climates and practicality.

- 1939, New York: The “official” thong moment in modern fashion came when Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia ordered nude dancers to cover up. Designers created skimpy underwear with a back strap — technically modest, but still revealing.

- 1970s Brazil: The thong as we know it today was popularised in Rio de Janeiro as part of the “dental floss bikini” trend. It quickly spread worldwide as both swimwear and lingerie.

- 1990s–2000s: The thong became a fashion phenomenon thanks to Victoria’s Secret shows, celebrities like Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera, and even the “whale tail” trend — visible thong straps above low-rise jeans.

- Today: The thong is a standard lingerie option, available in endless variations: classic thongs, G-strings, V-strings, and seamless invisible styles for everyday wear.

The sports bra is a relatively recent invention. Before the 1970s, women typically exercised in regular bras, which offered little support and often caused discomfort.

- 1977: The first official sports bra, called the “Jogbra,” was created by two American women, Lisa Lindahl and Polly Smith, with the help of costume designer Hinda Miller. Their prototype? Two jockstraps sewn together. It revolutionised athletic wear by providing bounce control and comfort during running.

- 1980s: Sports bras became commercially available, marketed alongside the fitness boom of the era.

- 1999: Brandi Chastain famously celebrated a World Cup soccer victory by pulling off her jersey to reveal her black Nike sports bra — a moment that cemented the garment as both functional and iconic.

- Today: Sports bras range from compression styles to encapsulation bras with cups, designed for everything from yoga to high-impact running.

Women’s briefs, as we know them today, are a 20th-century invention. Before that, women wore long chemises, pantalettes, or bloomers, but not fitted underwear.

- Early 1900s: Women began adopting shorter undergarments as skirts slimmed down. Knickers and bloomers evolved into smaller-cut panties.

- 1920s–30s: With lighter dresses and bias-cut fabrics, women started wearing slim silk or rayon briefs that looked closer to modern underwear.

- 1940s–50s: The term “briefs” became popular, and styles included high-waisted cuts that echoed Hollywood pin-ups.

- 1960s onward: Fabrics like nylon and Lycra made briefs stretchier and more comfortable. From here, variations like bikinis, thongs, and boyshorts spun off.

The bralette rose to prominence in the 2010s, as a counterpoint to padded push-ups and structured underwires.

- Early 2010s: Bralettes became popular with the rise of athleisure and minimalism. They were soft, wireless, often in lace or mesh — designed more for comfort than shaping.

- Mid 2010s: Fashion embraced bralettes as outerwear layering pieces, styled under blazers, sheer tops, and festival outfits. Brands like Calvin Klein, For Love & Lemons, and Aerie popularised the trend.

- 2020s: Bralettes remain staples, particularly as work-from-home and loungewear shifted lingerie toward comfort-first designs.

While often marketed as casual, bralettes also became fashion statements, bridging lingerie and outerwear.

Lingerie has always had innovators who changed the way women dressed — and the way fashion saw underwear. Some of the most influential names include:

- Jean Paul Gaultier — who turned lingerie into outerwear with Madonna’s cone bra corset in 1990. His corsets, bullet bras, and bustiers redefined lingerie’s place in fashion history.

- Coco Chanel — who popularised jersey fabrics in the 1920s, introducing softer underpinnings that freed women from rigid corsets.

- Frederick Mellinger (Frederick’s of Hollywood) — credited with making provocative lingerie mainstream in mid-20th-century America.

- Chantal Thomass — the French designer known for playful, theatrical lingerie in the 1970s and ’80s.

- La Perla’s Ada Masotti — an Italian corsetière who elevated lingerie into luxury fashion with her brand founded in 1954.

- Agent Provocateur (Joseph Corré & Serena Rees) — brought lingerie into pop culture in the 1990s with cheeky, theatrical styles.

More recently, designers like Stella McCartney and Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty have blended fashion, inclusivity, and lingerie innovation.