The gore is the small central panel of fabric that sits between the cups of a bra. Its shape and height play a huge role in how the bra fits and supports:

Fit & separation – A narrow gore brings the cups closer together, ideal for people with close-set breasts, while a wider gore provides more separation.

Support – In wired bras, the gore helps anchor the wires and distribute support evenly across the chest.

Shape – The height of the gore can change the silhouette: a high gore offers more coverage and stability, while a plunging gore creates an open neckline and works under low-cut clothing.

At Somewhere Never, my current bras are non-wired and don’t feature a centre gore — the shaping comes instead from embroidery placement, darts, and cut. But as I develop my first underwired bras, gores will become part of the design. I’ll be using them to balance bold embroidery with the structure needed for a supportive fit.

The bra band is the part of the bra that wraps around the torso, running under the cups and fastening at the back. It’s often overlooked, but it actually provides most of a bra’s support — far more than the straps.

Function – The band anchors the bra to the body, keeping the cups in place. It’s crucial that the band fits snugly: if it’s too loose, it will ride up the back and the bra won’t support properly.

Fabrics – Bands are usually made from elasticised fabrics or meshes that combine hold with comfort.

At Somewhere Never, I use a 3 cm (about 1.2 inch) wide underband elastic. It’s firm enough to give reliable support, yet it has a plush underside so it feels soft against the skin. That combination — firmness on the outside, comfort on the inside — keeps the bra supportive without ever feeling harsh.

The wings of a bra are the side panels that extend from the outer edge of the cups to the back closure. Along with the underband, they form the frame that wraps around the body.

Function – Wings help pull the cups close to the body, anchor the bra securely, and provide extra support. They also smooth the silhouette at the sides, helping the bra sit neatly under clothing.

Fabrics – Wings are usually made from stretch mesh, power mesh, or layered fabrics. They need to be flexible enough to move with the body but firm enough to hold the bra in place.

Width – Narrow wings create a minimal look, while wider wings give more stability and a smoother line.

At Somewhere Never, I use stretch mesh from Italy for my wings. It has the perfect balance of strength and flexibility, which keeps the bra snug while still feeling soft and luxurious. The wings work with the underband to ensure the bra fits close to the body and provides dependable support.

The cradle is the frame of a bra — the section of fabric that runs beneath and around the cups, connecting them to the wings and the underband. Think of it as the foundation that holds everything together.

Function – The cradle provides structure and stability. In wired bras, it’s where the channeling and underwires sit, anchoring the cups and helping distribute weight. The cradle is often fused at the centre front to block out stretch, which keeps the cups stable and ensures the wires stay in place for extra support.

Design variations – Some bras use a full cradle (a continuous frame beneath and between both cups), while others use a partial cradle (each cup is set directly into the band without a connecting frame).

At Somewhere Never, my current bras are wire-free and don’t use a traditional cradle. Instead, shaping comes from embroidery placement, darts, and cut. But in my upcoming underwired styles, the cradle will be central — both for support and as a clean frame for bold embroidery.

A bra sling is an internal support panel built into the cup of a bra. It works almost like an extra “hand,” giving targeted lift or shaping without being visible from the outside.

Function – Slings help redistribute weight, lift the bust, and prevent spilling at the sides. They can also provide gentle shaping while keeping the outside of the cup smooth.

Design variations –

Side slings – panels that run along the outer cup edge, pushing the bust inward for a more centred shape.

Bottom slings – panels at the base of the cup that add lift.

Full internal slings – almost a secondary lining, offering discreet support beneath delicate outer fabrics.

In fuller cup sizes, an additional lining or sling is often used to provide extra uplift, reinforce the fabric, and ensure the bra remains supportive without losing its shape.

At Somewhere Never, I don’t currently use slings in my non-wired bras, since I rely on pattern cutting, darts, and embroidery placement for shaping. But as I expand into wired and more supportive styles, slings will become an important tool to strengthen delicate fabrics and provide discreet structure while keeping the outer design bold, sheer, and graphic.

A dart is a folded, stitched wedge of fabric that shapes a garment to fit the curves of the body. By removing a small triangle of fabric, darts allow flat fabric to contour smoothly over three-dimensional forms like the bust, waist, or hips.

Function – In lingerie, darts are especially important for shaping cups without padding or moulded foam. They create volume and support while keeping the garment lightweight and flexible.

Types of darts –

Vertical darts run from the underband up toward the bust point, giving lift and projection.

Horizontal darts add roundness and depth across the bust.

Bust darts can also be angled or combined with seams for more complex shaping.

At Somewhere Never, darts are one of my main shaping techniques. Since my bras are non-wired and rely on rigid embroidered tulle, the fit comes from careful pattern cutting and dart placement rather than stretch or padding. This allows the embroidery to sit cleanly on the skin, while the darts sculpt the fabric around the bust for a precise, architectural fit.

Bras are generally made in two different ways: cut-and-sew or moulded.

Cut-and-sew bras – The cups are made from several pieces of fabric, cut to shape and sewn together with seams or darts. This method allows for precise shaping, use of delicate fabrics like embroidery or lace, and small-batch production. Seams can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal, each creating a different silhouette.

Moulded bras – The cups are heat-shaped from a single piece of foam or fabric over a mould. This produces a smooth, seam-free look under clothing, often used in everyday T-shirt bras.

Fit differences:

Cut-and-sew bras usually provide more customised shaping and support, as each seam helps contour the cup.

Moulded bras give a more uniform, rounded shape, but the fit is less adaptable across different body types.

At Somewhere Never, I work with cut-and-sew construction. It lets me use rigid embroidered tulles that showcase bold, graphic motifs, while shaping the bust with darts and seams rather than foam. Cut-and-sew also fits perfectly with small-batch production, as it doesn’t require expensive moulds. It’s a slower, more traditional process — but it allows me to treat lingerie as fashion, with each piece designed almost like mini couture.